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River Cruising Is Not What You Think: Notes from Bordeaux

In May, my sister and I sailed AmaWaterways’ Taste of Bordeaux. I went in excited but curious—would a river cruise feel too structured, too quiet, too… cruise-y? Spoiler: it was none of those things, and it might be my new favorite way to explore.

Embarkation: the easiest start ever

We gave ourselves a few slow days in the Cotswolds, then hopped a quick flight from Bristol to Bordeaux and took a private transfer straight to the pier. A gentleman with a clipboard met us curbside, tagged our bags, and—truly—within minutes we were walking up the gangway. No long queues, no cavernous terminals, no stress. It felt more like arriving at a boutique hotel than boarding a ship, and it set the tone for the whole week.

Pick-your-pace days

All week, we could tailor our days without overthinking it. Most days came with a couple of included choices—sometimes a gentle guided walk, other times a bike ride or a vineyard tour—so we matched the vibe we wanted, day by day. One morning might be UNESCO-listed Saint-Émilion (or pedaling through the vineyard lanes to get there); another, a medieval town wander, an old watermill and bread-making workshop, or a vineyard hike at Château Boutinet with wine and tapas. We could explore the Blaye citadel or opt for a riverside bike tour, stroll Bourg (complete with a quirky Carriage Museum and a festive tasting), sip our way through Médoc Grand Cru estates—or trade tastings for a Margaux vineyard hike. Even in Bordeaux proper, choices ranged from a city tour with market bites to a bike tour or time at Bassins des Lumières or Cité du Vin.

Quieter afternoons had a cozy rhythm—someone always had a jigsaw going in the lounge, a few folks were chatting over coffee or playing cards, others were up on the Sun Deck reading or tossing a quick game of cornhole as the river slid by. There’s also a small heated pool on the Sun Deck; in May it wasn’t quite warm enough for us to linger there, but it’s a lovely perk on warmer weeks.

Evenings on board: Sip & Sail, dinner, and unwinding

Every evening we’d all naturally gather for Sip & Sail—the included cocktail hour in the lounge. With a glass of wine, beer, or a house cocktail in hand, we’d swap stories from the day while the Cruise Manager gave a quick, super-helpful preview of the next day (hike vs. bike, timing, sign-ups, little tips). From there we’d drift to dinner—unhurried, local, and genuinely good—before a little live music or a stroll. Seating was open, so some nights we chose a cozy table for two; other nights we joined new friends. Afterward, we’d listen to live music in the lounge, take a short stroll if we were docked near town, or head up to the Sun Deck to watch the river lights. No dress codes, no production shows—just a relaxed, grown-up vibe that let the day breathe.

Food & wine (minus the fuss)

Meals were relaxed and regional. Breakfast meant warm pastries, fruit and cheeses, plus eggs made to order; lunch shifted with the day—market-fresh salads, soups, and a couple of comfort favorites. Dinners leaned into Bordeaux’s flavors without feeling fussy, with fresh seafood always on the menu. My standout bites: a silky wild mushroom soup and braised beef short ribs… and, honestly, all the desserts. Vegetarian and gluten-free options were easy to find each day.

Wine lovers’ perk: at several châteaux, you can buy wine to ship home or bring it back on board—we brought one to dinner and shared it with new friends, which felt perfectly in the spirit of the week.

Chef’s Table (our standout night)

An intimate 7-course tasting with an open kitchen, so you can watch each plate come together. Seating is communal—tables of six to eight—which made it a fun mixer; we loved swapping stories with shipmates between courses. Each course comes with complimentary, hand-selected regional wine pairings, which elevate the menu without any fuss. It’s included—you just need a reservation. Pro tip: book Chef’s Table as soon as you board (day one); seats are limited and prime nights fill fast. We left grinning (and very full).

Service that made everything effortless

By day two the crew knew our names, and our waiter—nicknamed “Superman”—seemed to appear exactly when needed without hovering. The shore team had bikes sized and ready, with cold towels and water after tours; the bar staff remembered our Sip & Sail order; housekeeping kept things immaculate with tomorrow’s program at turndown. It all ran quietly in the background, so the week felt easy.

Moments we loved in Bordeaux

Wine soirée in Bourg: an off-site evening in the hilltop village with live music and pours from local wineries—we walked there and back from the ship, which made it feel extra local and effortless.
Libourne market haul: cheeses and charcuterie from friendly vendors—the makings of the best little picnic.
Unhurried village wanders: losing ourselves in cobbled lanes and quiet squares—Saint-Émilion’s limestone passages, Bourg’s viewpoints, and sleepy streets made for golden-hour strolls.
History underfoot in Bourg: descending beneath the Carriage Museum to see World War II–era remnants (including underground petrol cisterns from the occupation)—a fascinating, unexpected glimpse into the town’s past.

Is River Cruising Your Vibe? (+ Rivers to Consider)

River cruising is perfect for food-and-wine lovers who want depth without the logistics fatigue; travelers who like options—active one day, easy the next; “see a lot, unpack once” people; pairs or small friend groups who want time together without herding cats; and anyone who’s curious about small towns, markets, and everyday life—not just the greatest hits. And if Bordeaux isn’t your flavor, there’s a whole menu of rivers and styles: the Rhine for castles and half-timbered towns; the Danube for grand cities like Vienna and Budapest; Portugal’s Douro for terraced vineyards and golden light; France’s Seine (Paris to Normandy) and Rhône/Saône (Provence and Burgundy); Germany’s winding Moselle; spring Tulip Time in the Low Countries; and even farther afield on the Mekong (floating markets and temple days) or the Nile (temples and timeless history). You can also lean into theme sailings—wine-focused weeks (like ours), Christmas Markets, or biking/hiking-forward itineraries—so the trip feels tailor-made to your travel style.

A few practical notes

Timing-wise, May brought flowers and comfortable temps for us; harvest season (September–October) has a warm, festive glow. If fresh air and views matter, choose a French or twin-balcony cabin. We pre-selected our excursions before sailing and then tweaked a couple onboard once we saw the weather and our energy (subject to availability). The vibe is smart-casual—no formal nights. Pack a light rain layer, great walking shoes, and a small backpack or tote. And yes, buying wine ashore is welcome: the crew will chill or open it at dinner, and some châteaux can ship bottles home.

Ready to try river cruising?

If this sparked ideas, click to grab my free guide: 5 Things You Need to Know Before Booking Your First River Cruise—quick, practical tips so your first river cruise feels easy from day one. Free Guide

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